Pesci e Molluschi Dop e Igp

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Con i Marchi di Qualità DOP e IGP l’Unione Europea riconosce, oltre alle tecniche di produzione tradizionali, anche l’origine geografica come fattore condizionante le peculiarità e la qualità dei prodotti alimentari.

Quindi appare chiaro che le caratteristiche distintive e singolari tipiche delle zone d’origine e le tecniche di produzione (che devono sottostare a dei severi disciplinari) conferiscono ad alcuni alimenti, compresi i pesci DOP e IGP, un valore aggiunto, non tanto nutrizionale, quanto legato ai fattori organolettici (odore, sapore, colore e consistenza), qualitativi e igienico-sanitari.

Ciò fa si che i prodotti alimentari Dop e Igp siano delle vere e proprie eccellenze italiane. Eppure quando pensiamo a degli alimenti con questi marchi di qualità ci vengono subito in mente dei formaggi tipici, alcuni prodotti ortofrutticoli e da forno, degli insaccati, delle paste alimentari e altro, ma mai i prodotti ittici. Eppure nel Bel Paese ci sono alcuni pesci Dop e Igp caratterizzati da esclusivi requisiti qualitativi.

I marchi Dop e Igp che significato hanno? Perché caratterizzano alcuni prodotti alimentari?

Il marchio DOP indica la Denominazione di Origine Protetta e viene concesso ai prodotti agroalimentari le cui caratteristiche di qualità originano del integralmente o in parzialmente dall’ambiente geografico nei quali vengono prodotti. Il territorio fa sì che i fattori naturali (clima, suolo, ecc.) e quelli umani (es. le tecniche di produzione e di trasformazione tipiche di un’area delimitata) influiscano e caratterizzino il prodotto alimentare finito. Ovviamente tutte le fasi produttive devono avere luogo in tale territorio.

In altre parole per prodotti DOP si intende “Il nome di una regione, di un luogo determinato o di un paese che serve a designare un prodotto agricolo o alimentare originario di tale regione, luogo o paese e le cui qualità o le cui caratteristiche siano dovute essenzialmente o esclusivamente all’ambiente geografico comprensivo dei fattori naturali ed umani e la cui produzione, trasformazione ed elaborazione avvengano nell’area delimitata“.

Il marchio IGP denota l’Indicazione Geografica Protetta cioè il marchio che viene conferito ai prodotti agroalimentari che hanno specifiche qualità e/o caratteristiche derivanti dall’origine geografica. Almeno una delle fasi di produzione deve avvenire in un’area geografica definita, ma non obbligatoriamente tutte come viceversa vale per le DOP.

Quindi per prodotti alimentari IGP si intende “Il nome di una regione, di un luogo determinato o di un paese che serve a designare un prodotto agricolo o alimentare originario di tale regione, luogo o paese e di cui una determinata qualità, la reputazione o un’altra caratteristica possa essere attribuita all’origine geografica e la cui produzione e/o trasformazione e/o elaborazione avvengono nell’area geografica determinata“.

Tra i prodotti italiani DOP e IGP troviamo frutta e verdura, cereali, aceto, spezie, prodotti di panetteria, carne e formaggi, ma anche alcuni pesci e molluschi.

Quali sono questi particolari “prodotti ittici italiani firmati” spesso poco conosciuti? E quali sono le loro peculiari caratteristiche? Come cucinarli e soprattutto cosa verificare prima di acquistarli?

Tinca Gobba Dorata del Pianalto di Poirino  (DOP)

Questo pesce autoctono d’acqua dolce (Tinca tinca), appartenente alla famiglia dei Ciprinidi, viene allevato e cresciuto negli stagni dell’Altopiano di Poirino. La sua carne è molto tenera e saporita (ma con un gusto non deciso come tipico del pesce di mare) e sempre priva del sapore di erba e/o di fango. È disponibile fra fine marzo e inizio ottobre, con disponibilità circoscritta alla zona di produzione.

Storicamente questa tinca è cucinata secondo la ricetta “Carpione Piemontese” consistente nel friggere il pesce e successivamente nel lasciarlo marinare in una particolare emulsione  (costituita da aceto, vino bianco e specifiche erbe aromatiche). Questo piatto viene consumato freddo.

La colorazione della pelle deve essere viva, brillante e lucente grigio-grafite o verde opalino sul dorso e giallo dorato sui fianchi. Lo spessore della pelle deve essere minimo (non superiore a 1 mm).

Salmerino del Trentino  (IGP)

Il Salvelinus alpinus è un pesce alpino facente parte della famiglia dei Salmonidae diffuso nella provincia di Trento, nel Trentino Alto Adige e nel comune di Bagolino. Questo pesce d’acqua dolce viene allevato in vasche alimentate con fredde e pure acque del Trentino (provenienti da nevai e ghiacciai perenni) caratterizzate dall’elevato grado di ossigenazione.

Questo pesce si distingue per l’avere una carne magra, asciutta, soda e dal sapore delicato. Viene cucinato in tantissime maniere (griglia, cartoccio, ecc.).

Il Salmerino del Trentino IGP in prevalenza è di colore grigio-verde, il dorso e i fianchi sono ricoperti di piccole chiazze biancastre, gialle oppure rosee.  Le pinne dorsali e caudali devono essere grigie mentre le altre sono di colore arancio con il margine anteriore di color bianco.

Acciughe sotto sale del Mar Ligure  (IGP)

L’Engraulis encrasicolus è pesce migratore e gregario che transita, dalla primavera all’autunno, in prossimità della costa ligure mentre in inverno si stanziano tra i 100 e i 150 metri di profondità.

Quest’acciuga deve essere pescata esclusivamente nelle province liguri di Genova, Savona, Imperia e La Spezia. Possono essere conservate in differenti modi (sotto olio, sotto sale, in pasta d’acciughe, ecc.), ma solo quelle sotto sale possono fregiarsi del marchio Igp. Queste acciughe vengono adoperate per insaporire molti piatti.

Le Acciughe sotto sale del Mar Ligure IGP hanno la pelle molto fine e devono essere sempre intere con delle dimensioni racchiuse tra i 12 e 20 cm di lunghezza. Il colore si differenzia nelle varie parti del corpo andando dal rosa al nereggiante intenso. I filetti devono essere ben aderenti alla lisca e avere una consistenza morbida. Le carni devono risultare magre e si differenziano per il sapore asciutto e marcatamente gustoso.

Cozza di Scardovari (DOP)

Questo mitile (Mytilus galloprovincialis) alloctono viene allevato in provincia di Rovigo (nell’area di Porto Tolle) dove si trova l’ampia sacca di Scardovari facente parte del delta del fiume Po. Questi molluschi bivalvi, nel luogo d’origine sono chiamati “peoci” e vengono allevati attraverso l’uso di impianti in sospensione (cioè galleggianti).

È un alimento di alta qualità nutritiva, ricco di proteine e dei salutari acidi grassi polinsaturi. Garantisce un buon apporto di vitamine e di sali minerali, soprattutto di sodio, potassio e fosforo. La peculiarità dell’ambiente delle lagune del Delta del Po conferisce alla cozza di Scardovari una qualità certamente superiore oltre che un sapore particolare e molto delicato.

Come tutte le cozze possono essere cucinate in tantissimi modi (marinara, fritte, impepate, forno, ecc.).

Questo mitile deve presentare una forma allungata, le valve devono essere bombate, di forma quasi triangolare e di colore nero-violaceo e devono presentare sottili striature concentriche. Le carni sono particolarmente morbide e fondenti con elevata palabilità.

La cozza di Scardovari (primo mollusco italiano DOP) deve essere commercializzata rispettando la sua taglia minima di 5 cm.

Trota del Trentino (IGP)

La Trota iridea (Oncorhynchus mykiss) è un pesce salmonide allevato in vasche contenenti acqua proveniente dalle fonti ricadenti nella zona di produzione determinata (Provincia Autonoma di Trento e comune di Bagolino).

Le carni possono essere bianche o salmonate, anch’esse sono caratterizzate dal sapore delicato (mai terroso) e soprattutto magre (i grassi non devono superare il 6%).

La Trota del Trentino Igp può essere cucinata in svariati modi (al cartoccio, in padella, arrosto, ecc.).

Questa Trota IGP deve avere il dorso verdastro e una fascia rosea su entrambi i fianchi. Il ventre deve essere bianco e deve avere delle piccole macchie scure sparse sul corpo e sulla pinna dorsale e caudale.

Non dimentichiamoci che i prodotti ittici sopra citati, come tutti i prodotti agroalimentari DOP e IGP, devono essere esposti con tanto di indicazione del Marchio di Qualità oltre a tutte le altre informazioni obbligatorie per legge.

A questo punto non mi rimane che consigliare ai lettori di www.alimentiesicurezza.it di cercare nei mercati ittici e nelle pescherie questi particolari “prodotti ittici firmati” oppure di ordinarli nei tipici ristoranti ubicati nelle rispettive zone di allevamento o di pesca.

Buon appetito…

—————

——-

Dr. Luciano O. Atzori

Biologo – Esperto in Sicurezza degli Alimenti e in Tutela della Salute
Divulgatore Scientifico – Consulente agroalimentare

Co-founder di ISQAlimenti.it

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